The basics of building a naturalistic vivarium is to create an enclosed
habitat that to some degree is ecologically sound. That means that
when planning the landscape, hardscape, wither it’s a false
bottom or not, you need to consider the habitat, micro-climate and
the needs of the species of reptiles or amphibians your planning
this vivarium for. This sounds overwhelming but it is very simple
to understand. Let's start at the bottom.
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| Plumbing and False Bottoms
A false bottom vivarium is one that is built with
a false bottom hence the name.
It is normally designed with an area under the substrate that is
going to be the return area where the water feature will end. This
is normal built using egg crate louver or light panel. Egg crate
is an inexpensive white or metalized plastic panel with square cell
openings used fluorescent ceiling fixtures. The idea is to create
a vivarium that offers drainage but with out the hassle and restrictions
of gravel. By building a false bottom vivarium the tank will be
able to offer more to the environmental needs of the animal that
will be housed as well as more ideas with regards to the landscape
and over all design.
Most of the vivariums that are built these days
are easy to build, quick and lack anything technical. This page
offers simple steps showing how to build a vivarium that will offer
the functions of a false bottom even if you don’t plan on a water
feature.
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| Egg Crate | top
of page
Locate and purchase the sheet of egg crate louver
from a local plastic - acrylic supply store. An Internet or phonebook
should help. It’s best to have them cut if for you and most will
do this for free. Cutting egg crate is difficult with out the right
tools as it’s a hard but brittle plastic. Ask the store clerk for
advice on cutting it your self. You will also want to purchase PVC
tubing from a plumbing or hardware store. Try to make sure the diameter
of the tube is more then two inches. Cut the PVC in lengths at least
1 inch longer then the pump or more depending on the length of the
water feature, if you plan on using a water feature. If you don’t
plan on a waterfall or stream then you won’t need the PVC, just
lay two layers of the egg crate on the bottom of the tank. Remember
the egg crate is replacing the gravel and providing the benefits
of drainage and a lighter weight vivarium.
Clean
the egg crate and the PVC tubing good with regular dish soap and
warm water just to prevent any chemicals or dusts entering the vivarium
that may be harmful to the reptile or amphibians that will be housed
in it. Clean the tank as good as possible, making sure that the
inside is clean and free of any soap film or oils. You will also
want to purchase a tube of GE2 Black silicone while at the hardware
store. This will be used to coat the inside of the tank so that
the plumbing and egg crate is not showing. No one wants to look
at tannin colored water. You can make a location that won’t be so
easily noticed if your concerned or personally interested in viewing
the underwater action but it’s not needed. On the outside of the
tank and with a crayon or washable marker, make a line that will
be used as a guide when applying the black silicone to the inside
of the vivarium. Measure about one or two inches above the egg crate
to make sure that you’re hiding the false bottom area as much as
possible.
With
latex glove and a small plastic putty knife, smear the silicone
evenly across the front and side and as much of the back as you
want. Do your best to not make contact with the upper area of the
glass but if you do, be sure to clean if off good. Nothing like
a smear from across the room to take away from the beauty of you
new naturalistic vivarium. Normally the thickness is about 1/8 inch.
Sometimes it’s easier to use Duct tape to make a stencil around
the inside of the vivarium before applying the silicone. Be sure
to cut along the edge of the tape with a good razor before pulling
it off. This way, you won’t risk pulling off any of the cover up.
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| PVC| top
of page
Be sure that the PVC pipe or fittings you plan
to use for the platforms are approved for drinking by the National
Sanitation Foundation (NSF). The black kind is ABS, or acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene
is a rigid plastic used for drain, waste and vent in mobile homes
as well as in residential and commercial sanitary systems.
First,
measure the height it will take to lift the egg crate about 1 inch
above the water level. Most folks do not both with this but I believe
it is best for the system to have some extra air under the substrate.
Once you have the measurement, mark the PVC pipe or if using 1”-3”
fittings like me, buy the right size for the project. When cutting
the pipe, be sure to make them as close to the same size as possible.
If using a band saw, it should be easy but with some PVC pipe saws
or the hack saw and table approach; it is easy to cut a crooked
or uneven piece.
Once
you have cut enough of the pipe or have enough platforms to place
one every 2-3 inches across the bottom, you will need to notch them.
Notching them is important, as there might be a large amount of
stagnant water build up inside the platform. To do this, simply
use a plastic file, saw or dremel cut tool. The notches do not have
to be large, just 1/2 “ or so. Two will be enough to allow
water exchange to occur inside the platforms that hold up the false
bottom. After that, wash the platforms good in warm water with dish
soap and rinse well.
With
the clean tank ready, lay down the platforms for the false bottom.
Make sure the platforms are in the corners, not blocking any holes
in the glass, and dry. With your silicone, squeeze a dab about ½
“ long on two sides of one end. Be sure that you do not cover
the notches. Press them in place firmly so that there is a good
contact between the glass and the PVC platforms. Give this about
40 minutes to set up properly. You can of course get more technical
with the platforms, egg crate an over all contour but that is later.
Keep it simple first.
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